Friday, January 20, 2017

A few Goodies from 1940...

Hello my dears,
The other day I was flipping through a tall, dusty stack of McCall Needlework magazines and I was reminded just how amazing they are.

McCall Needlework, at least in the 40's was usually published quarterly. It was a bit like modern sewing magazines with some free projects here and there, knit and crochet patterns, tutorials on the trendy crafts of the time, and sewing pattern advertisements.
And of course it's the sewing pattern advertisements that caught my attention, and I got lost for entirely too long just admiring them.

So naturally, I had to scan and share them with you all. This is a handy resource to date your sewing patterns, and really just fun eye candy, too.

Who else is head over heals in love with the hooded robe on the upper left?! I'm so in love with patterns that have hoods! If you have a copy of this one and you're willing to part with it, let me know!

Happy sewing,

Tuesday, January 17, 2017

Found in a Bag, a Second 1920's Dress!

In a recent post I mentioned that I had a few boxes about, filled with bits, scraps, and bags of things from my late mother's house. This next dress in a bag came from this stash of goodies as well. The dress has recently found a home with a collector who is skilled and dedicated to restoring 1920's dresses. I'm glad it's going to a loving home, and I thought that you might like to see some pictures showing some of the amazing details this little beauty featured.
I present to you, Dress in a Bag 2.0.

The upper body of the dress was shattered - a sadly common weakness of dresses like these. With so much added weight from the beads, a dress like this sitting on a hanger for 60 years or so may very well start to fall apart at the weight-bearing uppers.

Remarkably, after a detailed search, it looked like maybe only 3 or 4 beads in total had gone missing.

This floral motif was amazing - the silk was painted inside the beaded outline.

Luckily, the under-slip was in almost pristine shape; even the snaps were still securely sewing in place at the side.

I think by far though, my favorite detail was the ombre effect of the dye at the petalled hem.

Happy sewing,

Friday, January 13, 2017

Some Catalog Love from McCall 1929...

Hello my dears,
Today's post is simply some eye candy from a McCall's  Sewing Pattern Catalog from 1929. I've been catalog obsessed this last year. I started with one, fell in love and before I knew what had happened, I had just under a dozen.
Lord help me, but they are beautiful to behold.
So without further ado...

Friday, December 16, 2016

Found in a Bag - the 1920's Dress - Make Your Own.

I recently sold the Dress-in-a-Bag to someone that will love, cherish, and re-purpose it, and as I was packaging it, it occurred to me that if I wanted to make my own, I really already had everything I needed in my current pattern arsenal.
So here is just a bit of my thought process on how I would do it if I had the time (jury is still out on where said time will come from).

First I would start with a basic 1920's foundation slip. These are easily made, and can often be whipped up in about an hour.
I have a couple that would fit the bill of having a straight top and bottom with few frills and Depew #3032 is easiest to make. This I would sew out of opaque rayon or satin.

1920's Draped Slip #3032 (1928)

The Pattern for the rest of the dress that I would choose is Depew #3063. I would forgo using the bodice as pictured on the right in green, and use only the skirt and over blouse. The skirt could be sewn directly into the slip above, and the blouse could be worn over that. For this I would choose a slightly sheer Georgette.

1920’s Martial et Armand Couture Dress #3063 (1927)

This pattern was adapted from a Martial et Armand couture pattern released in 1927 and has a lot of little details in common, especially the long bloused sleeves that end in tied cuffs, just like the dress in a bag.

The blouse also had a band of rosettes at the hem (I'm assuming, it was badly injured here) and these I would likely add to the tied band at the hem of the couture blouse. If one wanted to be very like the dress, the ties could be trimmed short and replaced with an Art Deco buckle, or a hook and eye closure hiding behind a rosette!

To make the rosettes is simple, they're really just a strip of fabric about 2" wide, sewn together along the long edge to hide raw edges, turned, and twisted a bit and pressed flat with a hidden stitch here and there. You can also learn how to make more complicated rosettes from Ribbon Art.

As for the lace inset at the back, that's pretty easy. It's is about 3/4 the height of the back of the blouse, and about 5" wide at the bottom. I would choose a piece of lace, cut it out, and applique-stitch it to the back of the blouse, then cut away the blouse fabric underneath once that was securely stitched in place.

And that would be that! How about you? Have you ever tried to copy a damaged garment with vintage patterns? Or have you tried to restore something badly in need of repair instead? I'd love to hear your tales - what would you do with this dress?